Artesa Winery – Napa Valley

How do you hide a 120,000 square foot winery on top of a hill? The answer lies at Artesa Winery.

Barcelona architect Domingo Triay is an illusionist, for despite the modest facade, entering the space is an experience of unexpected light, warmth and sweeping vistas.  And the hidden winery?  A tour reveals that it sits beneath you, carved into the hillside and naturally insulated from outside temperatures.

As you approach the top, you realize that you are eye-level with reflecting pools on either side.  The angular fountains on the left catch the eye first, spraying water out into the sunlight just perfectly.  After resisting the urge to roll up your jeans and climb in (I am pretty sure it is prohibited), you notice the still pool to your right, with a singular sculpture rising out of it, drawing your eye past it to the first real glimpse of the fantastic views that are a part of Artesa.

You have made it up the stairs, but the winery entrance is anything but impressive – an entrance into a landscape covered mound.  Angular windows peeking out on the left hint that something lies beyond, but you turn around again to get another view of the pools seemingly spilling out to the vineyards beyond.  Perhaps the architect’s intent was not to draw attention to the winery design so that the extraordinary vistas of the Napa countryside could be fully appreciated.

Once inside, a concierge welcomes you to the colonnaded salon, where a glass or tasting of your choice can be enjoyed at the counter or at a table in the large space, with its high ceiling and warm finishes.  But diagonal lines are often used to draw the eye, and it is impossible not to notice doors to a terrace begging you to take a peek outside.  Of course you must oblige, and once again you are rewarded with spectacular views, this time to the south of the Carneros area with glimpses of San Pablo Bay in the distance.

Back inside (most likely for more wine), other areas of the winery make themselves known.  A large central atrium serves club members and features a sculpture of Madonna and child, a reproduction of an original in Spain.  A latticed roof and reflecting pool provide a more contemplative tasting area for wine club members.  Private tasting/dining rooms and a small shopping area fill out the space on the main level.

Art is a priority at Artesa.  It is one of a handful of wineries that designate an “Artist in Residence” and features work from Gordon Huether on display and for sale.  You can see his largest installation at the lower lot, consisting of the six sculptures around the fountain.  These are made of fiberglass, resin & powdered aluminum and were installed in 1997.  Huether is currently working on a large project for the expansion of Salt Lake City International Airport, his design can be seen here

The most striking sculpture is the large bronze by sculptor Marcel Martí that stands in the upper reflecting pool. Although the piece is untitled, concierge Scott advised that the form is that of a grapevine’s rootstock that a scion would be grafted onto.  Martí (1925-2010) was of Catalan descent and spent most of his life in Barcelona.

Artesa wines may delight taste buds, but the winery is a feast for the eyes.  I advise making it an early stop when the air is crisp and clear.  Tours include a tasting of 5 wines and are a must for first time visitors. Reservations are not required but check the Artesa website for the current schedule.

What factors into your decision to either stop at or pass by a winery?  Is it the reputation of the wine, the interesting architecture, the inclusion of art, or something else?  Let me know in the comments below.

Recommended stops in the area:  Domaine Carneros Winery, di Rosa Art Museum